On the busy streets of any Korean city, it can take a while to get from place to place. And rush hour, when tens of thousands of people take to the roads, can add an hour to a short car journey.

It’s no wonder, then, that so many people are riding a motorcycle in Korea to get around. They’re cheap, fast, and reliable.

So how can you ride a motorcycle in Korea?

If you already have a driver’s license from your home country, getting one in Korea is relatively simple. If your license is from a recognized country, you can exchange it for a Korean license.

However, for riding a motorcycle in Korea, the licenses require additional testing, as truck and motorcycle licenses are not accepted for a direct exchange. If you don’t have a driver’s license, or if you don’t want to exchange your old one, you can apply for a Korean driver’s license. This can be done in English, Chinese, French, German, and Japanese, depending on location.

Not all licensing centers can administer the motorcycle test, so please check before you go. The designated facility for motorcyclists is the Seobu Driver’s License Center, near the World Cup Stadium in Seoul.

To exchange a foreign license for a standard Korean one, you’ll need several documents:

• Foreign license
• Passport
• Alien residency card
• Three passport photos
• ₩11,000
• If you need additional motorcycle certification, the written test costs ₩4,000, and the skills test costs ₩5,000.

Once you have your license, you’re all set to get your own motorcycle. As mentioned above, bikes here are incredibly cheap, and motorcycle retailers are ubiquitous. Don’t expect any of them to speak English, though. You’ll just have to bring your phrasebook, a Korean friend, or be ready to write down some numbers. On the plus side, many of the words you need to know are actually the same in English and Korean.

Like many other products, motorcycle shops are often found clustered together in the same neighborhood or even on the same street. In Daegu, the best place to purchase a motorcycle is the well-known “Motorcycle Street” near Dalseong Park. As the name suggests, it’s a long street of nothing but bike shops, where you can buy new bikes, old bikes, or have your bike fixed.

In Seoul, try the area around Chungmuro Stn. (line 4). Elsewhere in Korea, you should just look for buildings with lots of bikes outside. Check a few for prices before making your decision. If you’re having trouble locating a shop where you live, you can also shop online with craigslist.org or passo.co.kr (Korean).

Daelim and Hyosung are the most reliable and respected domestic motorcycle brands and are reasonably priced. A new Korean motorcycle will generally cost around 1.5 million won, although if you want to get something more powerful, it can be pricey. Importing a foreign motorcycle is costly due to high import taxes, with prices ranging from four to twelve million won. “After service” (full-service warranty) is frequently included in your purchase, so you can bring your bike back when you need the oil changed.

Once you have your bike, you must register it at your local district office within 15 days to avoid fines. This should be relatively painless, but to ensure you don’t wait around too much, take a friend who can speak Korean.

Looking for a fun trip in Korea? Check out those 9 Relaxing Day-Trips places outside of Seoul

Taking to the road for the first time can be a daunting experience in Korea. Drivers aren’t always considerate, and as a motorcyclist, you’re largely expected to be quick enough to get out of the way of larger vehicles. Buses are probably the biggest threat. Watch out when you’re driving near the sidewalk, as drivers have no qualms about jumping two or more lanes in a flash.

For these reasons and more, city riding is more a matter of convenience than pleasure. You can cut significant time from your trip to work with a bike, and you can cut taxi fees right out of your budget. However, unless you enjoy the thrill of ducking and diving between careless cars and buses, you’ll probably want to hit the open roads for a pleasure ride.

There are some fantastic roads outside the cities, where the traffic moves more predictably and where you can set your eyes on the scenery rather than the other vehicles. It’s amazing how a person’s opinion of Korea can change after a trip beyond the city limits. The mountains rise from where the tower blocks once were, forests take the place of convenience stores, and the skies are no longer clouded by smog.

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The most popular routes for leisurely riding seem to be scattered throughout the central part of the country, stemming outwards from Daegu. The route from Daegu to Haeinsa is popular but fraught with tight turns and perhaps too many buses to allow for a truly relaxing ride.

Many riders prefer to go east instead and drive from Daegu to Gyeongju. The roads are safer and the scenery varies significantly. Another popular route takes you from Daegu to Cheongdo (route 25). It’s not too far to continue up to Gyeongju (route 20) and circle back.

Perhaps the finest journey in the whole of Korea, and one which seems only known to the locals, can be found between Gyeongju and Gampo (route 4) on the east coast. The journey takes a little over an hour and winds through the gorgeous mountain scenery to the sea.

If you fancy going further, you can follow the coastal route up to Pohang. There are motorcycles for rent by the Gyeongju bus station, so even if you don’t feel like riding all the way, you can just take in the scenic part of the journey.

Knowing the law before you hit the road can save you some serious trouble later. Most important to remember is that, according to Korean law, motorcycles are prohibited from using highways or expressways, regardless of engine size. You really have to stick to smaller roads. In the city, too, you’re supposed to stay in the right-hand lane at all times.

Though this law is rarely enforced, it’s a law nonetheless. Remember that while nearly every motorcyclist in Korea enjoys being able to ride on the sidewalk and skip traffic, it’s still illegal. You’re supposed to obey the rules of the road, and you’ll have no excuse if the police decide they want to issue a fine.

With these considerations in mind, riding a motorcycle in Korea can be an efficient, cost-effective, and enjoyable experience for both locals and expats.